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No country captures the mystery of Central Asia better than Uzbekistan.
it is by far the region's most fascinating country: It has the two ancient Silk Road cities Bukhara and Khiva as well as Samarkand, the historic capital of 15th-century Mongul conqueror Tamerlane.

 

Uzbekistan has always been a land of intrigue. Four hundred years after Tamerlane plotted his conquests, Russian and British spies and explorers added another layer to the region's mystique when they swept the region, competing in what Rudyard Kipling called "The Great Game." (Russia was loath to see Britain's empire expand anywhere in Central Asia.) The region was incorporated into the Russian empire in 1866 and became a part of the USSR in 1924. Even 60 years of Soviet rule were unable to erase this country's rich history, though poverty and neglect have allowed its infrastructure to unravel. Nonetheless, the clothing, architecture and lifestyles of the people blend together to create one of the most richly exotic atmospheres in the world.

Human habitation of Uzbekistan stretches so far back in time that no certain starting date can be fixed. Remains of Neanderthal encampments have been found, and the first mention of cities in the area date to the 1st or 2nd century BC, when travellers wrote of the wonders of the isolated region. Arabs invaded and ruled the land from the 8th century until the Mongol invasion of 1219, when Genghis Khan looted and razed any settlements he happened upon. The Mongols were followed by Persian, Turkish, Chinese and Uzbek invaders. The last successful invaders were the Russians, who incorporated the region into their empire in 1866. Uzbekistan declared its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Today the country is ruled by President Islam Karimov.

 

Uzbekistan's geography is dominated by desert and high plateau. In fact, three-fifths of the country is arid, although irrigation provides the means for a massive fruit and cotton economy in the north-eastern portion of the nation. Uzbekistan lies astride the Silk Road, the ancient trading route between China and the West. Trade brought riches and riches brought architects and scholars in its wake. The country has well-preserved relics from the time when Central Asia was a center of empire and learning. The cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Tashkent live on in the imagination of the West as symbols of oriental beauty and mystery.

The capital, Tashkent, Uzbek Toshkent, capital of Uzbekistan and the largest city in Central Asia. Tashkent lies in the northeastern part of Uzbekistan. It is situated at an elevation of 1,475-1,575 feet (450-480 m) in the Chirchiq River valley west of the Chatkal Mountains and is intersected by a series of canals from the Chirchiq River. The city probably dates from the 2nd or the 1st century BC and was variously known as Dzhadzh, Chachkent, Shashkent, and Binkent; the name Tashkent, which means "stone village" in Uzbek, was first mentioned in the 11th century.

Tashkent has always been an important international transport junction. Unfortunately, it preserves only a small proportion of its architectural past. A massive earthquake in 1966 flattened much of the old city and it was rebuilt with broad, tree-lined streets and the new buildings are of little architectural interest. The earlier buildings lie in the old town to the west of the center. A myriad of narrow winding alleys, it stands in stark contrast to the more modern Tashkent. Of interest among the interesting older buildings are the 16th-century Kukeldash Madras, which is being restored as a museum, and the Kaffali-Shash Mausoleum. Many of the Islamic sites in Tashkent are not open to non-Muslims, and visitors should always ask permission before entering a mosque or other religious building. An important center of trade and handicrafts on the caravan routes to Europe and the Orient, the city was conquered by the Arabs at the beginning of the 8th century and later became part of the possessions of various Muslim ruling lines before falling to the Mongols in the early 13th century. It was subsequently ruled by the Timurids and Shaybanids and then led an independent existence before being annexed by the Khanate of Kokand in 1809. When it was captured by the Russians in 1865, it was a walled city of some 70,000 inhabitants and already a leading center of trade with Russia. In 1867 it was made the administrative center of the new governorate-general of Turkistan, and a new European city grew up beside the old native one. Soviet rule was established by Russian colonists in November 1917 after an armed uprising. Tashkent remained the capital of the new republic of Turkistan in the U.S.S.R., but when the latter was split in 1924, Samarkand became the first capital of the republic of Uzbekistan, U.S.S.R. The capital was transferred to Tashkent in 1930.

Today Tashkent is the main economic and cultural center of Central Asia. The city's numerous institutions of higher education and research establishments include the university, founded in 1920, and various institutes of the Uzbek Academy of Sciences, set up in 1943. Another notable institution is the Navoi Public Library. The city's numerous theatres, Uzbek and Russian, include the Navoi Theatre of Opera and Ballet. The city has been extensively rebuilt since an earthquake in 1966 left 300,000 people homeless. A few 15th- and 16th-century religious buildings and mausoleums survive, including the Barakkhan Madrasah (theological school). Uzbeks and Russians comprise nearly four-fifths of the population, with minorities of Tatars, Jews, and Ukrainians. Pop. (1991 est.) 2,113,300.

Tashkent houses many museums of Uzbek and pre-Uzbek culture. These include the State Art Museum, which houses a collection of paintings, ceramics and the Bukharan royal robes. The Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts exhibits embroidered wall hangings and reproduction antique jewellery. As important historical figures, such as Amir Timur - better known as Tamerlane in the West - are being given greater prominence, the exhibits and perspective of the museums are also changing.

Samarkand is the site of Alexander the Great's slaying of his friend Cleitos, the pivot of the Silk Road and the city transformed by Timur in the 14th century into one of the world's greatest capitals. Founded over 5000 years ago, the city flourished until the 16th century before the sea routes to China and the rest of the East diminished its importance as a trading center. Much of its past glory survives or has been restored. The center of the historical town is the Registan Square, where three huge madrasas (Islamic seminaries) - including Shir-Dor and Tillya-Kari - built between the 15th and 17th centuries, dominate the area. Decorated with blue tiles and intricate mosaics, they give some idea of the grandeur that marked Samarkand in its heyday.

The Bibi Khanym Mosque, not far from the Registan, is testimony to Timur's love for his wife. Now it is a pale shadow of its former self and permanently under repair, but it is still possible to see the breadth of vision of the man who conquered so much of central and south Asia. Timur himself is buried in the Gur Emir. On the ground floor, under the massive cupola, lie the ceremonial graves of Timur and his descendants. The stone that commemorates Timur is reputed to be the largest chunk of Nephrite (jade) in the world. The actual bodies are situated in the basement, which unfortunately is not open to the public.

The Shah-i-Zinda is a collection of the graves of some of Samarkand's dignitaries. The oldest date from the 14th century as Samarkand was starting to recover from the depredations of the Mongol hordes of the 13th century.

Other sites of interest in Samarkand include the Observatory of Ulug Beg, Timur's grandson, which was the most advanced astronomical observatory of its day. There is also the Afrasiab Museum, not far from the observatory, containing a frieze dating from the 6th century which shows a train of gifts for the Sogdian ruler of the day.

Bukhara lies west of Samarkand and was once a center of learning renowned throughout the Islamic world. It was here that the great Sheikh Bahautdin Nakshbandi lived. He was a central figure in the development of the mystical Sufi approach to philosophy, religion and Islam. In Bukhara there are more than 350 mosques and 100 religious colleges. Its fortunes waxed and waned through succeeding empires until it became one of the great Central Asian Khanates in the 17th century.

The center of historical Bukhara is the Shakristan, which contains the Ark, or palace complex of the Emirs. Much of this was destroyed by fire in the 1920s, but the surviving gatehouse gives an impression of what the whole must have been like. Near the gatehouse is the Zindan or jail of the Emirs, which has a display of some of the torture methods employed by the Emirs against their enemies.

Not far from the Ark, the 47m-high Kalyan Minaret, or tower of death, was built in 1127 and, with the Ishmael Samani Mausoleum, is almost the only structure to have survived the Mongols. It was from here that convicted criminals were thrown to their deaths.

Other sites of interest in Bukhara include the Kalyan Mosque, which is open to non-Muslims, the Ulug Beg Madras - the oldest in Central Asia - and, opposite, the Abdul Aziz Madras. Bukhara, with the narrow, twisting alleyways of its old quarter, is full of architectural gems. Khiva, north-east of Bukhara, is near the modern and uninteresting city of Urgench.
Khiva is younger and better preserved than either Samarkand or Bukhara. The city still lies within the original city walls, and has changed little since the 18th century. Part of its attraction is its completeness; although it has been turned into a museum town and is hardly inhabited, it is possible to imagine what it was like in its prime when it was a market for captured Russian and Persian slaves.

Shakhrisabz is another famous city, which dates back to golden age of Tamerlan (Amir Timur). This is the motherland of Amir Timur. By order of Timur the town was surrounded with high walls, the town gates were equipped with drawbridges. The grand Ak-Sarai Palace was built in the northern part of the town and Dorus-Siadat Mausoleum was erected in the south-eastern part of the town. Gumbazi Seyyidan Mausoleum and Kok-Gumbaz mosque were built during the reign of Ulugbek.

The Art Gallery in Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, in the west of the country, has the best collection of Russian avant-garde art outside St Petersburg.

The Chatkalsky Reserve in the western Tien-Shan is a narrow unspoilt gorge and contains snow tigers, the rare Tien-Shan grey bear and the Berkut eagle.

The Chimgan mountains
- a unique corner of the western part of Tien-Shan has become famous for its beauty all the four seasons of the year and for its high level skiing facilities. This is the place where everyone who loves fast and dangerous skiing can find everything they need to have a real good time. Many people gather here in the winter to spend their holidays and weekends. Comfortable hotels, camping, restaurants, rental service of skis and other skiing equipment, everything here is ready to provide tourists with high quality service. It takes an hour or more to get here from Tashkent.

In 629-645 AD a Buddhist pilgrim Xuan-Zang visited Central Asia on his way from China to India. His description of this rich and fascinating land impressed his contemporaries. A flourishing country Sogda and its capital Samarkand, a walled city - Termez with 12 Buddhist temples and more than 1000 monks, caravanserais and camelcades laden with exotic goods from different parts of the world - everything and everywhere has a sign of abundance.

So far several Buddhist historical places has been discovered in Uzbekistan. Among them - Kara-Tepe, Fayaz-Tepe and Dalverzin-Tepe in the surroundings of Termez are the most attractive for the visitors owing to their sensational discoveries such as statues of Buddha which date back to the 3rd century AD, the brick stupa which dates back to the 1st century ??, the sixteen meter high Zurmala Tower - the remnant of the largest Buddhist stupa in the area and possibly the oldest construction still standing in Uzbekistan, series of murals depicting various adorants in Kushan dress, fragments of pottery containing Brahmi, Punjabi, Kharoshti and Bactrian scripts and other Buddhist relics.

Tales of exotic Tashkent, of the glittering court of Samarkand, of the violent history of Khiva, and of the lure of the caravanserai have set many an imagination on fire over the centuries. Yet, while they were hidden for so long behind the bland face of the Soviet Union, almost nothing has been heard in the West of the fabled cities of the heartland of Central Asia and their intriguing stories

 

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